Improvement in apparatus for drafting patterns for dresses and coats



2 SheetsSheet 1.

Z. BAUER. APPARATUS FOR DRAF'IIN'G PATTERNS FOR DRESSES AND coATs.

No. 195,332. Patented Sept.18,1877.

ATTEET. I INVENTUH.

MPETERs, PHOTO-LITMOGRAPHH, WASHINGTON, D C.

Z Sheets-Sheet 2.

Z. BAUER. APPARATUS FOR DRAF'I'ING PATTERNS FOR DRESSES AND COATS. 310,195,332. Patented Sept.18,1877.

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li-PLTEP-S. WTHOGWAFNER, WARNING! 5' C PATENT QFFICE.

ZAOHAEUS- BAUER, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI.

- hllMEPROrVEM ENI lN/APPARATI'US FOB DRAFTING PATTERNS FOR DRESSES AND COATS.

, Specificationforming part of Letters Patent N 0. 196,332, dated September 18, 1877; application filed J nine 22, 1877.

To all whom it may concern:

' Be it known-thatl, ZAcnAE s BAUER, of St. Louis, Missouri, havemade' a new and useful Improvement in Apparatusfor Laying Out Dressand Goa-tPattern-s, of which the following is; a full; clear, and exact description,

reference being had to the annexed drawing,

making part of this specification, where- Figure l shows that part of theappa-ratusused' in laying out the' front of the garment; Fig. 2, that partfu sed in laying out the back of-the garment; Fig. 3, that part used in laying'out the sleeve; and Fig. 4', that part used in laying out the skirt. The dotted lines indicate the outlinesof the several portions of the pattern. I, i

1 Similar letters refer to sirn-ilar parts. I have heretofore invented a'de'vi e for laying out coats, patented "June I, 1875-.-

The present device is intended more especially for-layin g out d rejsses andother garments of 7 ladies wear, and it'is a modification of the constriiction referredto, in that the arrangement of severalofthearnrsof the device 'is changed to conform to the female figure.

As theipresentarrangement ot the arms in question is essential to thepre'sent' purpose. the precise inclinations of the arms will be hereinafter particularlydescribed.

As in the former construction, the device is composed of .two 7 parts, mainly, A and B, shown, respectively, in Figs. 1 and 2, and which,-re'spectively-, are usedfin laying out the front and back of the garment. There are also two other'part's, and D, shown, respectively, in Figs, 3 and 4, and employed, respectivel'y,'iir laying outrthe sl'e'ev'e'and' the" skirt.

Each of the parts A andB, considered gen-- erally,"is'further composed of an upper and lower part, sliding-vertically upon each other, and designated, respectively, a and a! and b and b. The upper part, a, is constructed as follows: The arm E extends in the direction of the breast-measurement; the arm- F in the direction of the neck in front; the arm G in the direction of the shoulder-point of the neck; the arm H in the direction of the top of the shoulder; the arm I in the direction of the shoulder-point, and the armJ in the direction opposite to that of the arm E.

The upper and lower parts a and a of the angles to the part K, and the arm L at an angle of one hundred and three degrees therewith, they are arranged at the particular angles designated on the drawing, viz., the arm E at an angle of eighty-six degrees, the arm J at an angle of ninety-four degrees, and the arm L at an angle of ninety-eight degrees with the part K.

The upper part, b, of the part B is, as previously, provided with five projecting arms,M, N ,0, P, and Q. The lines of their projections are, respectively, as follows: The arm M in the line of the breast-measurement; the arm N in the direction of the arm-hole; the arm 0 in the direction of the shoulder-point; the

arm P in the direction of the shoulder-point of the neck; the armQ in the direction of the center of the back of the neck. The upper and lower portions, b and b, of the part B 'slide upon each other in a manner similar to the parts of the frame A. The lower portion,

I), is provided with an arm, It. Now, of these last-named arms three (N, O, and Q) are arranged as heretofore. The remaining three,

(M, P, and 1d,) however, are changed, and as follows: The arms M and R, instead of being at right angles with the part lettered W, as hitherto, are arranged therewith at the angles designated, viz., the arm M at an angle of eighty-four degrees, and the arm R at an angle ofninetyeight degrees. The arm P, in place of being parallel with the arm Q, is arranged at an angle of fourteen degrees therewith.

All of the above-described changes, saving that of the arm P, are to provide for ladies garments exclusively. The change in the position of the arm P facilitates the laying out of coat-patterns as well as dresses. In consequence of its inclination to the arm Q, as described, the distance between the ends of the slides 10 and q is increased as the latter are moved outward, and the pattern at this pointis thus made to conform more accurately to the enlarged size.

The operation of the invention is similar to that of my aforesaid patented device-that is, six measurements of the person are taken. First, from the center of the back of the neck straight down to the breast-line second, from the same point to the line of the waist; third, from the same initial point down over the shoulder to the front of the arm at the breastline; fourth, the full length of the garment, according to its style; fifth, from the center of the back to the arm, thence to the elbow, and then the full length of the arm; sixth, the breast and waist measurements in the ordinary way. The slides of all the arms of both parts of the device (saving those relating to to the waist) are then set out to the number on the scale corresponding to the breast-measurement. The positions of the slides of the arms P and Q of the part B are then tested and corrected by laying off the extent of the first measurement above named upon the device-that is, from the point S toward the end of the slide of the arm Q-and adjusting the slide accordingly. The position of the slide of the arm P is then corrected by that of the arm Q. The slides of the remaining arms of the part b are not altered. The parts b and b are then opened out, according to the second measurement above named. The parts a and a of the part A are similarly opened out. Then, by means of the third measurement above named, adjust the position of the slide of the arm G relating to the position of the shoulder-point of the neck. In making this adjustment, first measure on the part b the distance from the end of the slide q to the end of the slide 12, deduct this from said third measurement, and lay the remainder off from the point T (or position of the front muscle of the arm) toward the end of the slide g, adjusting the latter accordingly. The remaining slides of the frame a. are not moved.

It a very accurate measure is desired, the position of the slide n (or the one relating to the end of the arm) is corrected by the fifth measurement above named. The slides on the arms L and R are then set out to the size of the waist.

To lay out the sleeve, the part C, Fig. 3, is used. This consists of two arms, 0 and c, joined at the angle shown, and suitably provided with extension-slides. The latter (and from the side 0" c' as a base) are set out according the breast-measurement above named. The curved dotted line Y is then drawn from the point e" to the center of the end of the slide of the arm 0, and thence to the center of the end of the slide of the arm 0. This is for the upper side of the sleeve. For the under side,draw another curve, Z, as shown, and terminating at a point, z, one inch inside the end of the line of the upper side of the sleeve and above the arm a.

To lay out the skirt, the part D, Fig. 4, is used. This part consists of two arms, d and d, joined at the angle shown. By laying either arm against the arm R the other arm indicates the outline of the skirt.

The position of the arm L of the part A may be varied slightly, according to the position of the dress; but the position of the arms M and R of the part B remains the same in all cases.

At P, Fig. 2, a further improvement is shown. Instead of making the slide p enti rely of a metal strip, and engraving the scale directly upon it, the slide is grooved longitudinally from end to end, and in this groove a paper strip, 12, having the scale printed thereon, is attached, and so that the scale occupies the same relative position as when it is graven on the slide.

The side edges 1W1) of the slide protect the sides of the strip 10 from wear, and, by making the edges 12" p slightly higher (as is preferable) than the surface of the strip 1;, the latter is still further shielded.

This last named improvement not only cheapens the construction of the device, but also enables the scales to be readily changed, at will, without necessitating the abandonment of the entire apparatus.

I claim- 1. The herein-described device for laying out dress-patterns, consisting of the parts A and B, and having the arms E, L, M, and 1t, arranged as described, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. In the part B, the arrangement of the arms M and R, substantially as and for the purpose described.

3. The part B, having the arm P arranged at the inclination shown, for the purpose described.

4. The combination of the parts A, B, and O, constructed and arranged to operate substantially as described.

5. The combination of the parts B and D, substantially as described.

6. The grooved slide 12, having the strip p, substantially as described.

7. The combination of the grooved slide 1), having the edges p p and the strip 10', substantially as described.

ZAOHAEUS BAUER.

Witnesses:

CHAS. D. MOODY, Gno. H. KOHN. 

